As Ghenwa Alam explains it to her students, patterns are maps and pattern making is the blueprint for constructing a garment. It is also the technical language that translates a designer’s idea into a wearable piece. The person drafting a pattern is not always the person sewing the garment. Therefore, every detail must be communicated with precision. The more information a pattern contains, the easier it is for someone else to bring the design to life.
Nevertheless, the transition from 2D to 3D isn’t straightforward, Ghenwa adds. After a pattern becomes a sample and placed on the body, it reacts to the body’s volume and movement, often revealing the need for further adjustments. If shaping and darting are overlooked at this stage, the result is ill-fitting clothing.
Moreover, fabric influences how a garment must be constructed. Every type of textiles carries its own characteristics, like weight, thickness, elasticity, and drape, which influence the outcome. For example, a heavy wool responds differently than a delicate tulle, and a rigid cotton differently than a stretchy jersey. Therefore, paper and fabric are in continuous dialogue.
Ghenwa follows by challenging a common misconception among aspiring designers: “technical” work is “boring” and should be outsourced. Many heavily rely on their tailors, expecting them to resolve technical challenges, when in reality it is not their responsibility. As she points out, a tailor’s job, even if experienced, is only to sew and assemble a garment properly. So, when they tell you that an idea cannot be done, the solution is to roll up your sleeves and figure out a “creative technical” way to achieve your vision.
Listening to Ghenwa, I couldn’t help but identify with her. Her words echoed the conversations I, as a textile instructor, have with my students. Today, speed dominates the industry. Trends move quickly, collections must be produced faster, and the pressure to deliver leaves little room for research. Understanding materials, testing ideas, and experimenting with shape have been overlooked altogether.
So, what happens when designers forget the importance of technical design? They lose their independence. They rely on others to execute their ideas into reality. Often than not, their concepts end up diluted. They compromise the fit of their clothes. The shortcomings of manufacturers are labeled as theirs. They might “save” time and money in the short term, but they lose their business in the long-term.
How do we remedy that? Well, it is a journey with many twists and turns. It starts by reconnecting with clothes, by washing them, ironing them, folding them, inspecting them closely, and asking: “what do I like about this and why?”. It is through these observations, reflections, and answers that one begins to understand the logic behind the technical decisions that were made. When designers regain that technical literacy, they move from simply imagining clothes to truly understanding how clothes live with the body.
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