There is no real sustainable fashion ecosystem in Lebanon, according to sustainable fashion designer and advocate Lamia Nassif. It is an unpleasant and uncomfortable truth, but only once it is acknowledged, the foundation of a healthy ecosystem will begin to take shape, she argues.
“Nobody knows how to define sustainable fashion. Ask anyone for a definition and they either don’t know the answer, or they will mention upcycling and deadstock. Worse, some designers use the term exclusively for marketing and branding purposes, which only adds to the confusion.”, Lamia emphasizes.
Sustainability should be at the core of the design process. It begins with sourcing the right fabrics, extends to pattern cutting, and ends with production. Crucially, it demands accountability at every stage, which cannot be upheld without asking the following questions: Where do fabrics come from? How is the generated waste handled? Where are the garments sewn? Are the workers fairly paid? What happens to unsold inventory? Are after sale services and repairs offered? The answer lies in four simple words: a comprehensive sustainable ecosystem.
“Lebanon has designers, but everything else is missing. There are no laws and regulations to be enforced. Therefore, there is no transparency. Some suppliers sell you polyester as cotton because they can’t tell you a fabric’s composition. Factories impose high MOQs to turn bigger profits, and have no interest in producing smaller quantities. Schools are not preparing students for the industry. They graduate without any knowledge of how to build a supply chain, manage production, or survive financially in this market. Awareness is based on personal interest, so knowledge is uneven. Add to the fact that demand is very niche, the incentive to evolve is nonexistent … grassroots initiatives can only go so far!”, Lamia notes.
Consumers are also responsible. While they often express interest their behavior doesn’t reflect it. There are those who continue to buy low-cost alternatives, despite claiming to value more conscious choices. Others tend to keep their compulsive shopping habits and substitute fast fashion with questionably sustainable brands. Meanwhile, cost remains a barrier for the great majority, even for those who understand the stakes.
Depending on your point of view, these contradictions can be seen as the root cause of the problem or a catalyst for change. “Tangible change will continue to be limited without a functioning ecosystem. To build it, we need to start with proper education. Then, we create local sourcing networks, followed by centralized production, and eventually, a funding system. On the consumer side, we should focus on raising awareness and build platforms that are protective of sustainable fashion’s essence in order to promote designers and connect them to the right clients.”, Lamia adds.
In recent years, Lebanon has witnessed countless scattered initiatives to fill the existing gaps. However, they did not generate the desired impact. They have either disappeared at best or quietly pivoted at worst. The main issue is the use of the wrong blueprint. Everyone continues to use the same playbook as fast fashion, one that is driven by volume and short-term returns. Whereas, sustainability cannot be achieved until growth is decoupled from profit.
An assessment that may not sit well with a sizeable portion of businesses. Given the economic reality nowadays, they would frown upon the idea of slowing down and sacrificing their profits on the altar of sustainability. The more considerate would be in favor of improving workers’ living standards, hiring more artisans, pushing for industry regulation, using natural fibers only, and becoming circular, if they could fit the proverbial circle of sustainability in the figurative square of profitability. At the same time, most consumers are open to shopping artisanal and ditching trends if they don’t have to pay a hefty price tag.
So, what should be done to avoid having an entire generation disillusioned with the sustainable fashion industry? Who should take responsibility? Should brands do the “heavy lifting” or clients have to step up? Well, both have to act together! We have to move forward as a “we”, not as an “us” and “them”. We have to move beyond praising and chastising, transcend petty bickering, and open the door to sincere conversations and transparent discussions to address the entirety of the sustainable Lebanese fashion ecosystem.
A dialogue about meaningful growth, living wages, green factories, knowledge passing, marketing campaigns, representation and inclusivity, collectives and cooperation, laws and regulations, textile sourcing and manufacturing, waste generation and disposal, transparency and traceability, finishing and quality, democratizing of fashion knowledge, proper pricing, triggers of overconsumption, purchasing habits, swap groups, among other things, should be initiated. Otherwise, awareness becomes trivia.
A dialogue between all actors: label owners, textile merchants, fashion schools, emerging, established and OG designers, patternmakers, artisans, tailors, seamstresses, workers, clients, and other stakeholders, separately and collectively, should take place. This is the first step in the long road of connecting actors and building the long-awaited ecosystem.